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True Value #2
Let's try this again. What are the advantages of bullion over numismatics, and numismatics over bullion when there is a market crash (removing confiscation as a possibility)?<!-- / message -->
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Re: True Value #2
are you incapable of finding your previous post?
it is here http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=19048 The advantage of bullion over numismatics in a crash is that bulion holds more intristic value than numismatics. a gold coin is a gold coin is a gold coin. If things are hard to come by than you would have much easier time trying to convince someone that the coin you hold in your hand is a piece of gold than trying to tell someone that the coin you hold in your hand is not only made out of gold but also is seen as a rare coin among some people with excess funds (what funds? FRNs? Euros? Rubbles? Tugrecks? Wheelbarrows or reichmarcks?) and a penchant for collecting Frivolous things are less likely to be given value in the event of a market crash |
Re: True Value #2
There are no advantages of numismatics over bullion in a crash.
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Re: True Value #2
Thank you.
That is all I wanted, an answer to the question that I posted in the first place (see first posting titled "True Value"). It was not a matter of being incapable of finding my first post, as I was fully aware of it and the replies made. The question I posted in the first posting "True Value" was "what advantage would a numismatic have over bullion in a crash?" I am sorry it took two nearly similar postings, but those responding were apparently incapable of addressing the question I posted the first time around. Thanks again. Your response was dead on. |
Re: True Value #2
......Although :
Your Tangible Asset Portfolio -Craig R. Smith, SATC Mar. 7, 2005 http://www.swissamerica.com/news/art...0503071208.jpg So far in the 21st century, gold and silver coins have outperformed almost every other asset class, such as stocks, bonds, CDs and mutual funds. September 11, 2001 changed the economic landscape dramatically yet many financial "experts" have yet not changed their recommendations to include tangible assets, like gold and silver coins. Building a financial portfolio that is able to withstand the storms of life is not easy. Every financial advisor has a little different perspective on which assets offer the best return and safety but wise counselors now recommend gold and silver as portfolio hedges. Swiss America would like to help you make sure that your 'investment pyramid' is secured with a solid foundation but, first we need some honest answers to the following three important questions ... 1. HOW LONG DO YOU PLAN TO HOLD YOUR INVESTMENT? 2. WHAT LEVEL OF RETURN DO YOU HOPE TO ACHIEVE? 3. WHAT DEGREE OF RISK ARE YOU PREPARED TO ACCEPT? Based on your personal choices, you should adjust your portfolio to fit your goals. Swiss America offers a two-way liquid market in all U.S. gold and silver coins and bullion-related products. ............... P.S. Build a solid portfolio from the bottom up ... Low Risk category could include cash, T-bills, CD's, money market funds, annuities, etc. SATC recommends gold and silver bullion coins in this category. Limited Risk category could include residence, retirement plans, Treasury bonds, etc. SATC recommends investment-grade U.S. gold and silver coins in this category. Moderate Risk category could include blue chip stocks, preferred stocks, mutual funds, stock/index options, leveraged real estate, equity partnerships, etc. High Risk category could include tech/high growth stocks, aggressive growth mutual funds, emerging markets, high-yield (junk) bonds, art, commodity future contracts, venture capital, gemstones, etc. -Source : Swiss America (website) |
Re: True Value #2
Another over-priced, numismatic-hawking, quasi-boiler room operation.
The REAL problem with numismatics is in determining an accurate price level before buying or selling..... where accurate price levels never exist beyond the whim of the dealer involved. |
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My 1853 large cent purchased in '03 for $15 is now worth $29. My 1893-CC Morgan purchased in '04 for $114 is now worth $215. My 1884-CC Morgan purchased in '04 for $125 is now worth $215. Even if a dealer offers me $25, $185, and $185 for each, I've still made a profit better than "GOLD" ! :applause_ |
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Don't count your chickens before they hatch. :afraid: Take those coins to a few dealers, and get some real-world offers. After they are through under-grading and "appraising" them for you, maybe reality will set in. :stickyman
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Re: True Value #2
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"see this, it's the Rappaport Report, shhhh, this is between you and me, i want you to see i'm not out to scam you, see this sheet says right here a 1carat vvs1/g is worth $xxxxx, i'm only making a small profit." "oh, o.k., i see, no, no, no, i trust you" "well that's good to know, i just want to be a fair dealer" (said with fingers crossed) |
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HAH ! ....do you take me for an amateur ??? ...I've been collecting coins since 1987 and have dealt with just about every type of dealer you can think of. I've heard the 'insults' the "your coins don't grade that high" over and over and over again. :bowdown: BUT just to amuse a fellow PDB, I'm going to a show Saturday in which I will take the same coins to get offers. I'll then follow-up with a report on Monday. Mark my words....."better than gold" :banana: |
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The greysheet is a dealer guide with "ask" and "bid" columns which attempt to standardize the market when coupled with professionally graded coins like PCGS and NGC. However, let me point out that the Greysheet has been 2-3 weeks behind on pricing because of the time to compose and print. It's been behind for 2-yrs. now and I'll bet you can't find a 'Carson City' dollar in any grade at 10% over greysheet. Likewise, any knowledgeable coin dealer will happily pay "greysheet" prices for your Carsons..... |
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Oh.......and BTW the last Gunshow I attended, I was "doubling" my money on every Carson City "CC" dollar I bought or traded for. :applause_ Take that one to the bank !!! |
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It takes precision memory and a keen eye to pick out the sleepers. Coins chosen (some say 'cherrypicked') by 'true' collectors are usually go for unusually high premiums. However, one has to be very picky, choosy, and willing to turn down buying a coin with the slightest flaw. Too often, a 'hack' collector who's memorized a few coin book values tries to go for just high grades without studying the coin. You can't buy the holder and expect anyone to pay you more for it. Anyways, I feel like I'm rambling but 'novices' are often prey for coin dealers. It takes practice and a lot of mistakes to realize the difficulty in choosing the 'right' coins. Then there are just some people who never get it. They just don't have the "eye" or patience to learn all the intricate details of cherrypicking. Of course, I specialize in Morgans and often re-grade my own coins spending hours looking at details in my study at home. The real challenge is finding "VAM's" which are the collector coins of collector coins. IT's the next "tier" in numismatics and most dealers find it too difficult to sift out VAM's from their own inventory. Case in point > I bought a 1895-S Morgan last year based on "Fine" condition alone for around $200. After careful research and studying, I found the "S" was slightly crooked. Then putting the coin under a microscope (yes, I said microscope), I discovered it's a VAM variety "S" over Horizontal "S" and the value is now in the $350-$400 range. Maybe I should sell it, maybe not....but it's worth more than I paid. :D |
Re: True Value #2
"Having an eye" as you say makes all the difference in the world, and can make or break any collector, dealer, or investor. Blind faith in the slabs is one of the biggest mistakes I've seen investors make over the years, though true collectors (and very rarely dealers) only seldom fall into that trap. The invention of slabs was an attempt at commoditizing numismatics, though every coin is as different as night and day to an experienced eye. Being able to take a fresh roll of BU Morgans for instance, and picking out the top two or three coins is definately an acquired skill. Not many even today who can do so consistently other than those who do that kind of thing on a regular basis.
Sometime around 1975 or 1976, one of my partners and I were at a medium sized regional show, when an older gent walked in the door with a large bag of coins, obviously a mint bag. Terry nearly ran up to him and invited him over to our table, at which time he said he had some old silver dollars to sell. Expecting a bunch of Las Vegas "slot dollars", we took them to the back table and poured them out for a look. To our surprise, it was a half mint bag of nice BU 1881-S dollars, common date of course, but some very nice dollars. We ended up offering him $8 a coin first pick of the bag, quantity of our choice. Regular BUs could be had for $6-7 each at the time, but there were alot of nice gems interspersed that would bring $12-15 without a problem. We ended buying the better half of the coins, and further picking the absolute gems (todays MS68s and better) out to put back for ourselves. The rest sold that same weekend and recouped the entire purchase amount, so we had the real gemmy pieces for basically nothing but our time in cherry-picking them out of the group. That was one of the last partial mint bags of Morgans we ever saw at a show. BU rolls were alot more common and available, but most had been cherry-picked before hand. After 1978 or so, real "gem" dollars started to become alot more scarce and alot more expensive. After the slabbing services started up in earnest, prices really took off. Gem Morgans were always a favorite of mine, and in all truth probably contributed more to "seed money" for dealings in bullion material in later years more than I would have believed possible when I first started buying them up in the late 60s-early 70s for relatively little of nothing. Those were the "good old days"....... :character |
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Okay, guys, here's the results which were "mixed" and I got the full scoop on the 'spread' for numismatic coinage. As it turns out, my $30 Large Cent 1853 was listed in the greysheet for $20-$25 depending on condition (VG-F). I was in high hopes to get $25 although I'm not trying to sell. Well, as it turns out there was a nice Morgan so liquidating my Large Cent became a 'mission'. In the end, the best deal I was offered was $15 (what I paid 2 yrs. ago.) as I got up to walk away the dealer quickly said, "I can go $17" and I knew his weakness because he was the only dealer at the show with several dozen large cents on displays and no Morgan Dollars..........so I sold it to re-invest into another Silver Dollar. My 1893-CC has another story. Let's see, I said it's about $215 retail, right ? IN fine condition, sure.....but in VG then the price falls to $185. Of course dealers use a greysheet so the bid/ask is about $135/$145. The dealer said he'd pay me about $130. Not all too bad since I only gave $114 for it last year but it was still discouraging. The 1884-CC GSA coin (worth about $215) - Never offerered it to any dealer because of my poor offers on the others. This was a small show and dealers were not in the buying mood - even for Carsons. Here's the "meat" of the issue..... The greysheet is supposed to be wholesale but it's now available to anyone who subscribes. The dealers, in turn, have re-established a new wholesale mark which is "below" wholesale. 80% of greysheet for most coins and 90% of greysheet for CC dollars. That means if you look up a coin in a book, magazine, online, etc. and it's listed for $200. The greysheet will be about $175-$185........and the dealer will only give you about $140-$148 for the coin. Too bad if you paid $180 even if other dealers have that coin for $200 at their tables.......the spread is a whopping 30-35% !!! Soooooooooooooo,......even if your coins rise in value 30-35% which is far better than most investments, you'll only break even by selling them to a dealer. :bawling: Hmmmmm.....I said rare coins rose 54% last year ? .....well take off the 30-35% spread and the real number is more like 20% which isn't bad but not as fantastic as it sounds. Plus, the 54% is an 'average' with some dates doing better than others. Oh, and for those that bought the $700 1889-CC last year, it's worth $1700 but actually listed in the greysheet for $1450-$1500 and the dealer will only pay you about $900-$1100 depending on how 'bad' he wants your coin. Lastly, remember they always 'bump' the coin down 1-grade then offer you 80% of wholesale. :rant: I'm being harsh since I know dealers have to make $$$ to cover their table expenses, etc. |
Re: True Value #2
Unfortunately, "reality hits home" more often than not when selling numismatics, as others of us have been trying to get across in this thread.
In reality, you are up 6.6 percent on the large cent, and 14 percent on the 93cc, or an average (of two coins) of about 10.3 percent in contrast to industry claims of 54% (whole market?) last year. This of course before factoring in opportunity costs, the fall in the dollar exchange rate, inflation, taxes, etc. as they may apply AND the dealer buy/sell spreads off the top as you have seen. Though gold and silver may or may not have matched or exceeded your results over the same period, holding the metals would have erased any doubts as to dealer spreads and actual current cash values, something that can be a big advantage over dealing with the uncertainties and arbitrary-value markets of collectibles. |
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Ahhhhh.......and I'm also seeing some advantages with a 'narrow' spread and why some bullion guys prefer gold to silver with a 'tighter' spread. Another thing that was mentioned by one of these dealers had to do with sale-ability. Since the CC morgans are 'quicker' movers, they're more liquid with a tighter spread that is close but still 10% more than bullion. That means even the very best, top dawg coins still are not truly liquid. 'Valuable' ~ maybe.....convertible to cash ~ 'somewhat' ......all with an overall risk factor greatly overshadowing any profits to be made. So in summation (and generally speaking), numistmatics are below 'average' investments often creating liabilities for the seller. |
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The "Gray sheet" has been used by the public 25 years ago.....it is a guide, not gospel. Dealers have wants and needs....if all his money is tied up in inventory he will not make a good offer.....if you had 55 watermelons for sale with few buyers, and you are offered 20 more what would you do? Travel to the premier shows...ANA, Long Beach, Central states...those are the "beauty shows" Look at coins as a hobby, educate yourself, buy nice stuff, not generic puke. If you happen to make money great....buy for enjoyment. Whether it is sea shells, stamps, fossils, or twinkie wrappers, enjoy it, learn about it, do not dwell on the dollar made or lost...HAVE FUN
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gee, A.D., isn't that what i said? all kinds of "sheets". i think you owe me an apology. |
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Yes, Mr. Shiny did mention "all sorts of sheets"......and I never contested the fact that several pricing guides do exist. However, I do NOT agree that pricing is purely "arbitrary" or loosely based on eroneous information. I'll give you credit for making a point about the plethora of guides available but that's all........... GOOD DAY Mr. SHiny 'Hiney' |
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now be a man, admit your mistake, and apologize. <!-- / message --><!-- sig --> |
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Clarification Warning: The statement below is not 100% B.S. as there is some truth sprinkled in to fill the gaps of 'assumed' knowledge. "<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=alt2 style="BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset">there are all sorts of "sheets", in all sorts of fields, every last one of them is designed to suck you in, take the Rappaport Report for diamonds, this is a supposedly "secret" price structure "sheet", problem is just about everybody buying a diamond knows about it, that's because jewelers let their customers in on the "secret", some secret! "see this, it's the Rappaport Report, shhhh, this is between you and me, i want you to see i'm not out to scam you, see this sheet says right here a 1carat vvs1/g is worth $xxxxx, i'm only making a small profit." "oh, o.k., i see, no, no, no, i trust you" "well that's good to know, i just want to be a fair dealer" (said with fingers crossed) </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> "All sorts of sheets" ? - ok......but they are NOT designed to "SUCK" people in ! The greysheet has validity in establishing a 'blue book' value on numismatic coins....but it is a GUIDE ! Just because a dealer uses it as a crutch and then modifies the #"s to suit his own needs doesn't warrant ANY liability on its publishers ! For Pete's sake Mr. Shiny ~ do you have ANY COMMON SENSE ?!?! :banghead: There's nothing "secret" about the greysheet either. Not one dealer that I approached showed me the 'Shiny' pricesheet or the 'Kubla Khan' price sheet. Every dealer that I approached discounted the greysheet. What my complaint was and still 'is' - is that you look up a coin in the Whitman's red book and it has a price like an MSRP. Then you read a coin guide like "coin values" at the local bookstore which is supposed to be 'fair market values'. Then you attend a coin show where everyone is using 'greysheets' which are wholesale prices. Of course the DEALER then modifies those low prices by 10%-20% and that's where the "all the guides are bogus - can't do me any good" mentality pops up because of a salesman who's not being 'fair'. It's business and profits are to be made regardless of the collector, investor, or if your name is 'SHINY'. I gotta admit that you're quite the stubborn one with completely different viewpoints from mine. These arguments are like playing chess where I'm focused on the overall game and meanwhile you keep taking my pawns and trying to put me in check. :fight: Finally, your statement is full of b.s. because there were no "Secret" price guides or special reports that backed up outrageous claims by the dealers. The dealers had their own formulas and simply didn't offer what I thought they would. It's ok, because as long as I know they're 10-cents for the 1-dollar I'll just need to pay 10-cents or less for my 'dollars' ......if you can follow my logic or will this spur another apology asking ???? :bowdown: |
Re: True Value #2
A.D., S.T.F.D.,S.T.F.U., & maybe you will learn something!
are you in the business? or are you just a collector? me i am in the business, i know every trick in the book, i could sell hot coffee & jalepenos in hell. believe me, your so called sheets, or as you seem to call them guides, are designed to sucker the collectors, if they are industy guides, why does everyone know of them? is everyone in the coin industry? just admit it to yourself, you are a sucker, you fell for it. Quote:
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#1 - Yes, I'm a 'collector' - a true numismatist who specializes in Morgan dollars. #2 - NO, I didn't fall for anything. I lost no money just some pride and the disappointment of not 'profiting' as I had hoped. #3 - "Check" what's your chess rating ??? |
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PDB (aka Shiny) must be like 4�2� tall because he exhibits all the symptoms of � little mans syndrome �. Kinda like a Chihuahua nipping at your shoe laces then when you accidentally step on him his ears drop, his eyes get big and then he wants an apology. Next he gets brave again and follows you to the next thread to go after your shoe laces again. -1 |
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what is your problem neg. one?
i am pretty sure A.D. can fight his own fights. Quote:
you pervert! damn Army personnel, they see one pecker & they can't get enough!!!! i know, i know, don't ask, don't tell, but you have to admit, you are obsessed with fecal matter. |
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When you encounter this type of �dealer� I would suggest the following�. 1. Never buy from that dealer. 2. Inform as many people as you can about his shady practices. 3. Put adds in local papers to offer to buy coins and to do free appraisals for seniors, so they have some idea what their coins are worth. They will come back to you with their coins when they hear what the rip off dealer will pay! 4. Get the word out to all the banks (in that dealers area and beyond) that you will buy coins and do appraisals. The tellers at banks are always good for some silver. 5. Tell other collectors of coins, gold and silver in your area to do the same. 6. Do all you can to dry the �dealer� up. The internet is killing a bunch of these guys businesses off so hopefully it will not take much to step on these Chihuahuas. -1 |
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